General Electric Bike Maintenance
Essential Maintenance Tools and Products for E-Bike Enthusiasts
Maintaining your electric bike (e-bike), electric trike, or electric tricycle is crucial for ensuring its performance, longevity, and safety. Whether you're an avid cyclist or rely on your e-bike for daily commutes, having the right set of tools and products can make a significant difference in keeping your ride in top condition. This guide outlines the recommended toolkit for maintenance and repair, along with essential lubricants and other products to keep your e-bike, e-trike, or e-tricycle running smoothly. Basic Toolkit for Every E-Bike Owner Multi-Tool with Hex Keys: A must-have for adjusting and tightening most parts. Screwdrivers: A set of flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers for various adjustments. Pliers and Cable Cutters: Essential for gripping and cutting, particularly wires and cables. Torque Wrench: Ensures bolts are tightened to manufacturer specifications, preventing damage. Tire Levers: Makes tire and tube changes easier. Floor Pump with Pressure Gauge: For maintaining optimal tire pressure. Advanced Tools for Comprehensive Maintenance Bearing Press and Removal Tools: Necessary for replacing bearings in hubs or bottom brackets. Cassette and Chain Whip Tools: Key for drivetrain maintenance. Spoke Wrench: For wheel truing and spoke tension adjustments. Disc Brake Tools: Includes bleed kits and pad spreaders for brake upkeep. Specialized Tools for E-Bikes Motor-Specific Tools: Tailored for the maintenance of specific motor brands. Battery Terminal Cleaners: Ensures a clean and reliable power connection. Diagnostic Tools: Useful for troubleshooting and software updates. Lubricants & Other Essential Products Light Penetrating Oil (e.g., Tri-Flow): For lubricating metal components. Chain Lubricant: Keeps the chain running smoothly. Degreaser: For deep cleaning of your ebike. Grease: Lubricates critical components such as pedals and seat tubes. Medium Threadlocker (e.g., Loctite Blue 242): Prevents bolts from loosening due to vibration. Biodegradable Bike Cleaner (e.g., Muc-Off): An eco-friendly option for cleaning. Rubbing Alcohol: For cleaning and temporary lubrication. Protective Blocks: Shields the display when the bike is flipped. Nitrile Gloves: Keeps hands clean from grease and grime. Cleaning Towels: Essential for maintenance and cleaning tasks. Maintenance Best Practices Routine Inspections: Check your ebike before each ride for any issues. Regular Cleaning: Helps avoid wear from dirt and debris. Consistent Lubrication: Crucial for the longevity of moving parts. Proper Storage: Essential for protecting your e-bike during downtime. Conclusion Equipping yourself with the appropriate tools, lubricants, and care products is essential for the upkeep of your e-bike, e-trike, or e-tricycle. This comprehensive toolkit not only enhances your riding experience but also extends the lifespan of your ride, potentially saving you from costly professional repairs. While this list covers the essentials, the specific needs of your electric ride might require additional tools or products. Always refer to the user manual for maintenance guidelines tailored to your specific model, such as those provided by manufacturers like Perraro.
Learn moreRemoving a Stuck or Stripped Bolt on Electric Bikes and Trikes
Encountering a stuck or stripped bolt on your electric bike or trike can be frustrating. Whether you're dealing with a bolt that won't budge due to corrosion or one with a damaged head due to improper tool use, these steps can help you effectively address the issue without causing further damage to your electric vehicle. Understanding Bolt Issues Stuck Bolt: This occurs when a bolt won't move due to rust, dirt, or incorrect threading but retains an intact head. Stripped Bolt: This happens when the bolt head is damaged, usually from using the wrong tool or technique, making it difficult to get a good grip with a tool. Tools You'll Need: Penetrating lubricant (e.g., WD-40, PB Blaster) Anti-seize compound (e.g., Loctite) Locking pliers (e.g., Vise-Grip) Masking tape Rubber band or steel wool Correctly sized tool for the bolt Hair dryer Steps for Removal: Preparation: Ensure your electric bike or trike is turned off and the battery is removed. Discharge any remaining power by pressing the power button. Apply Penetrating Lubricant: Liberally apply a penetrating lubricant around the bolt head and let it sit for at least 20 minutes to break down rust or grime. Heat Application (for stuck bolts): Use a hair dryer to heat the bolt head for a couple of minutes, then allow it to cool. This process helps expand and then contract the metal, loosening the bolt. Removal Techniques: For stuck bolts, firmly press the correctly sized tool into the bolt head and turn slowly to loosen. For stripped bolts, place a rubber band or steel wool over the bolt head before using the tool to provide extra grip. Using Pliers: If the bolt remains immovable, protect the surrounding area with tape and use locking pliers to grip and turn the bolt. Professional Assistance: If these methods fail, seek help from a professional bike mechanic to avoid further damage. Post-Removal: Once removed, replace the bolt with a new one, applying an anti-seize compound to prevent future issues. Preventing Bolt Damage: Always check for and clean off any rust, dirt, or grime before installation. Use the correct tools and techniques to avoid damaging the bolt heads. Follow the recommended torque specifications to avoid over-tightening. By following these steps, you can effectively address stuck or stripped bolts on your electric bike or trike, ensuring your vehicle remains in optimal condition. Remember, regular maintenance and the right tools are key to preventing these issues from arising in the first place. If you have any inquiries or need further assistance, feel free to contact our support team at support@perraroelectricbike.com or call us at (949) 414-8003.
Learn moreElectric Bike and Trike Maintenance: Guarding Against Rust, Corrosion, and Electrical Damage
Maintaining your electric bike (ebike) or electric trike is crucial to ensuring its longevity and optimal performance, especially in preventing rust, corrosion, and electrical damage. Whether you own an electric bike or an electric tricycle, following these best practices will keep your ride in top condition, ensuring safety and enjoyment in various climates and conditions. Best Practices for Electric Bike and Trike Care Optimal Storage Solutions: Indoor Parking: Always park your ebike or electric trike indoors when possible to protect against the elements. Outdoor Precautions: If outdoor parking is unavoidable, limit the duration and ensure the bike or trike is dried off and stored in a dry location afterward. Covering: Use a cover temporarily during rain, but remove it promptly after to avoid moisture buildup. Routine Maintenance and Cleaning: Regular Check-Ups: Maintain a frequent maintenance schedule, especially after exposure to wet conditions, to prevent rust and corrosion. Cleaning Techniques: Clean your electric bike or trike with a damp cloth, avoiding high-pressure water sources that can damage electrical components. For more detailed cleaning tips, refer to our cleaning guide. Preventive Measures: Scratch and Chip Repair: Use touch-up paint or clear nail polish on any scratches or chips to prevent rust. Chain Care: Keep the chain clean and well-lubricated, especially after riding in harsh conditions. Protecting Electrical Components: Moisture Management: Avoid immersing your electric bike or trike in water and keep it upright when wet to protect the electrical system. Salt and Chemical Exposure: Avoid riding in coastal areas or on roads treated with de-icing compounds to prevent corrosion. Regularly clean and apply anti-rust treatments if exposure is unavoidable. Conclusion Protecting your electric bike or electric trike from rust, corrosion, and electrical damage is essential for ensuring its longevity and reliability. By following these maintenance tips and best practices, you can enjoy a safe and enjoyable riding experience on your ebike or electric tricycle. Remember, regular care not only enhances performance but also safeguards against potential hazards. Keep riding Perraro Electric Bike with confidence, knowing you're taking the best care of your electric ride. If you have any inquiries or need further assistance, feel free to contact our support team at support@perraroelectricbike.com or call us at (949) 414-8003.
Learn moreEbike - Electric Trike Components and Terminology Glossary
The terms frequently used in the documentation from Perraro Electric Bike are explained as follows: Allen Bit: A hexagonally shaped tool bit used in conjunction with various wrenches to tighten or loosen bolts with hexagonal recesses. Allen Wrench: Also known as an Allen key, hex key, or hex wrench, this tool is used for working with bolts that have hexagonal socket heads, available in various millimeter sizes. Alternating Current (AC): A type of electrical current that reverses direction and voltage polarity periodically, commonly supplied by household outlets and power plants, contrasting with direct current (DC). Amp-hour: A unit of electric charge representing the amount of electricity carried by a steady one-ampere current over one hour. Ampere: The base unit for electric current in the International System of Units (SI). Axle: The central component of a wheel's hub, connecting the wheel to the bike frame's dropouts, either through quick release or a nut/bolt mechanism. Axle Spacer: A hardware piece that adds space between components on an axle. Backing Nut: A nut used to secure a mechanical bike cable in place by clamping against the cable pinch bolt. Backlight: Illumination that comes from behind a surface or the source of such illumination, distinct from a "taillight" which is a vehicle's rear light. Ball Bearing: Spherical components made from steel or other materials, used to reduce friction between moving parts, commonly referred to in the plural form as "ball bearings" or simply "bearings." Barrel Adjuster: A device used for fine-tuning the tension of cables in mechanical brake and gear systems, aiding in the adjustment for cable stretch. Battery: An energy storage unit that provides electrical power to an electric bike's motor, with specific voltage and current characteristics. Battery Capacity Gauge: A feature on an LCD display indicating the current charge level of the battery. Battery Level Indicator Light: A light on an LED display providing a visual estimate of the battery's charge level. Battery Management System: An electronic system designed to protect the battery and ensure its safe operation, typically found in "smart" batteries. Battery Mount: A frame-mounted support for the battery, facilitating its connection to the bike's electrical system. Battery Receptacle: The connector located at the end of the battery mount for electrical interfacing. Bicycle Grease: A lubricant used for maintaining specific parts of a bicycle. Bolt Head: The enlarged end of a bolt, designed in various shapes and sizes, featuring different drive types for tools. Bottom Bracket: The assembly that includes the axle-like component for crank rotation, transmitting force through the drivetrain, housed within the bottom bracket shell at the bike frame's core. Bottom Bracket Shell: Part of the bottom bracket assembly, it is the tube through which the bottom bracket components are installed, connecting the downtube, seat tube, and chainstays. Bottom Bracket Spindle: The rotating axle passing through the bottom bracket shell, linking the cranks and pedals. Brake Cable: A steel cable, typically encased in protective tubing, that transmits force from the brake lever to the brake mechanism. Brake Caliper: The component that houses the brake pads and clamps them onto the rotor to slow or stop the bike when the brake lever is engaged. Brake Hose: A hose carrying hydraulic fluid, connecting the brake lever to the brake calipers to facilitate braking action. Brake Lever: The handlebar-mounted lever actuated by the rider to engage the bike's braking system. Brake Lever Sensor: A sensor within the brake lever that signals the controller to disengage motor power when activated. Brake Lever Sensor Cable: The cable transmitting the signal from the brake lever sensor to the controller, cutting off motor power during braking. Brake Light: A rear-mounted light that activates when the bike's brakes are applied, distinct from a standard taillight. Brake Pad: The component within the brake caliper that contacts the rotor during braking, creating the necessary friction to slow the bike. Brake Pad Retention: The method or system used to secure brake pads within the caliper, ensuring they remain in place during operation. Brake Pad Retention Pin: A specific pin designed to hold the brake pads securely within the calipers. Brake Rotor: The metal disc attached to the wheel hub, engaged by the brake pads to slow the wheel through friction when braking is applied. Brake-pad Separator: A tool used to create space between hydraulic brake pads for maintenance or adjustment. Brushless Motor: A type of electric motor that operates without physical brushes for commutation, reducing mechanical wear and extending lifespan, albeit at a higher cost. Cable Cover: A protective cover for cables, ensuring they remain organized and protected, distinct from the cable housing or wiring harness. Cable Crimp: A small metal component that is clamped onto the end of a cable, such as a brake or shift cable, to prevent it from fraying and ensure it stays secured within its fixture. Cable Guide: A device or fixture on a bicycle that routes and secures the cable in place, ensuring smooth operation of brake or gear systems. Cable Housing: The protective outer layer for cables, providing a conduit through which the inner cable can move freely while being protected from the elements and external damage. Cable-Pinch Bolt: A fastening mechanism that clamps the end of a cable in place, typically found at the brake caliper or gear mechanism, ensuring the cable's tension is maintained. Cadence: The rate at which a cyclist pedals, often measured in revolutions per minute (RPM). This can influence the level of assistance provided by an e-bike's pedal-assist system. Cadence Sensor: A device on an e-bike that measures the pedaling speed of the rider, used to adjust the level of motor assistance based on the pedaling cadence. Caliper: In the context of bicycles, a component of the brake system that squeezes the brake pads against the wheel's rim or a disc to slow or stop the bike. Caliper Adapter: A bracket that allows the brake caliper to be mounted to the bike frame or fork, ensuring compatibility with various rotor sizes. Caliper Arm: Part of a brake caliper that moves inward to press the brake pads against the braking surface, contributing to the braking force. Captive Flat Washer: A flat washer attached to a bolt or screw in such a way that it cannot be removed, ensuring it stays in place during assembly. Captive Split Washer: Similar to a captive flat washer, but with a split design to provide spring tension, ensuring a tighter fit and preventing loosening from vibrations. Captive Washer: A general term for washers that are permanently attached to bolts or screws, used to distribute load or prevent loosening. Cargo: Any items or loads carried by a bicycle, excluding the bike's own components, the rider, and passengers. Cassette: The collection of gears on the rear wheel of a bike, allowing for a range of gear ratios to adapt to different terrains and speeds. Castle Axle Nut: A specialized nut with notches that allow it to be secured with a cotter pin, preventing it from loosening under vibration. Chain: A series of linked metal pieces that transfers power from the bike's pedals to the drivetrain, propelling the bike forward. Chain Tensioner: A device that keeps the chain taut, ensuring efficient power transfer and reducing the risk of the chain slipping off the gears, particularly on single-speed bikes. Chain-Tensioner Bashguard: A protective component that shields the chain tensioner from impacts and potential damage. Chainlink: An individual section of a bike chain, consisting of inner and outer plates, pins, and rollers, which connects to adjacent links to form the chain. Chainring: The toothed rings attached to the crankset, which engage with the chain to drive the bike forward when pedaling. Chainstay: The part of the bike frame that runs parallel to the chain, connecting the bottom bracket to the rear wheel hub. Chainstay Brace: A structural element that connects and reinforces the two chainstays near the rear wheel, enhancing frame stability. Charger: A device used to replenish the battery of an electric bike, converting AC power from a wall outlet to the DC power needed by the battery. Charging Port: The input socket on an e-bike battery or bike frame where the charger is connected to recharge the battery. Chassis: The core frame of a vehicle, in the context of bicycles, it usually refers to the main frame to which components are attached. Clamp Bolt: A bolt that secures components in place by clamping them against another part, often used in seat posts, handlebars, and stem connections. Commuter Bike: A bicycle designed for regular travel between home and work or school, typically featuring a comfortable riding position and provisions for carrying cargo. Cone Spring: A spring shaped like a cone, used in various mechanical assemblies for its progressive compression characteristics. Connector: A device that joins electrical circuits together, allowing for the transfer of power or data, commonly used in e-bike components for modular connections. Connector Terminal: The conductive part within a connector that makes electrical contact with the mating connector, enabling the flow of electricity. Controller: The electronic component on an e-bike that regulates power from the battery to the motor, controlling speed and other functions based on input from the rider and sensors. Controller Carrier: A fixture or bracket that holds the e-bike's controller in place, often within the bike frame for models with integrated or semi-integrated batteries. Cotter Pin: A pin used to secure two parts together, often in conjunction with a castle nut, to prevent loosening from vibration. It's also used in securing brake pads in some systems. Crank: The lever arm attached to the bottom bracket and pedals, translating the rider's pedaling action into rotational force for the drivetrain. Crank Arm: Specifically refers to the lever part of the crank that extends from the bottom bracket spindle to the pedal, on which the rider applies force to pedal. Crank Arm Mount: The interface on the bottom bracket spindle where the crank arm is attached, usually featuring a specific shape (like square or splined) for a secure fit. Crankset: The assembly of the bike's front chainrings, crank arms, and the spindle that connects them, forming the major component of the bike's drivetrain responsible for power transmission. Current: The flow of electric charge, fundamental to electric bike operation. Direct current (DC) is used in e-bikes, flowing in a constant direction and provided by the battery. Deflopilator: A device, typically a spring, that connects the front fork to the frame to prevent the front wheel from turning excessively when the bike is on a kickstand, aiding in stability. Derailleur: The mechanism that shifts the bike chain from one gear (cog) to another, enabling the rider to change gears. Derailleur Bashguard: A protective shield for the derailleur, guarding it against impacts and damage from obstacles. Derailleur Cable Pinch Bolt: The bolt mechanism that secures the end of the derailleur cable, ensuring proper tension and function of the gear shifting system. Derailleur Limit Screw: Screws on a derailleur that limit its movement to prevent the chain from derailing off the cassette or chainring, ensuring smooth gear shifts and chain alignment. Direct Current: The type of electrical current used in e-bikes Direct Drive Motor: A motor variant devoid of gear reduction, offering higher efficiency at increased speeds, a marginally slower startup, and reduced noise during operation. See also "gear reduction" and "geared motor." Disc Brake: A brake system employing calipers to press brake pads against a rotor's sides, slowing the bicycle effectively. Also refer to "rim brake" and "hydraulic brake." Downtube: The bicycle frame section linking the head tube to the bottom bracket. Drive Side: The bicycle side that houses key drivetrain components like the chain and the derailleur or chain tensioner. Drivetrain: The assembly of components, including the chain, freewheel, and derailleur, that transmits power to the bicycle's axle. Dropout: The frame segment at the bicycle's front fork and rear designed to secure the wheel axle. Dual-leg Kickstand: A kickstand featuring two legs, one per side, stabilizing the bicycle when engaged, focusing on the nearest wheel to the bike's center of gravity. Ebike: Abbreviation for "electric bicycle," a bike that utilizes electric power from a battery for propulsion. Extension Cable: A cable used to extend the reach of another cable Extreme Riding: Advanced riding techniques and stunts that pose risks of damage to the bike and potential injury or fatality to the rider. Eyelet: A small loop, typically for linking components together. Faceplate: A protective cover for machinery or electronics, often securing the handlebar to the stem on a bicycle. Fender: A protective guard over the wheel to prevent spray from mud, water, and debris. Fender Mounting Arm: Hardware for securing and aligning a fender to the bike's frame or fork. Flash Mode: A visibility-enhancing feature causing continuous flashing, available on some Perraro Bikes models. Flat: Refers to a punctured tire or tube. Flat Washer: A round, flat hardware piece with a central hole, used to spread the load of a screw or bolt. Flat-side Cutters: Pliers-like tools with flat cutting edges for trimming zip ties. Folding Stem: A collapsible handlebar stem found on models like Polar Trike and Panda electric tricycle for compact storage. Fork: The bike's front structure that holds the front wheel. Fork Arch: The component connecting the tops of the fork lowers, providing stability and support. Fork Crown: The upper section of the fork where the two sides meet and join the steerer tube. Fork Dropout: The notches on each fork lower that secure the wheel axle. Frame: The bike's structural backbone, made of metal tubing, supporting the rider's weight. Frame Folding Mechanism: The complete folding system integrated into the frame of foldable bikes. Frame Hinge: The pivot point within the frame's folding mechanism on foldable bikes, like the Perraro Panda Electric Trike and Polar Electric Tricycle. Frame Stand: A protective element near the bottom bracket, safeguarding the crank, especially when the bike is folded, as seen on the Perraro Jaguar ebike. Freewheel: A hub-mounted mechanism allowing the wheel to spin freely when not pedaling, distinct from a "cassette." Front Rack: A fixed or attachable front structure on a bike for carrying cargo. Gear: A toothed wheel part of the drivetrain, engaging the chain to transmit motion. Cog: An alternative term for "gear." Gear Reduction: A motor feature where a smaller gear (a "reduced" gear) with fewer teeth drives a larger gear with more teeth. This reduces the output's rotary speed but increases torque. Geared Hub Motor: A geared motor positioned on the hub. Related to "geared motor," "gear reduction," and "hub motor." Geared Motor: A type of motor that employs gear reduction. Bikes equipped with this motor type exhibit more low-end torque, start slightly quicker and more efficiently, and are slightly louder than direct-drive motors. Related to "gear reduction" and "direct drive motor." Grommet: A flexible ring or loop used to reinforce or protect an opening. Handlebar: The bar held and used by the rider to steer the front wheel and bike. Handlebar Grip: A component of the handlebar, one at each end, designed for hand gripping. Handlebar Stem: The horizontal tube linking the handlebar to the steering column. Headlight: A light positioned at the front of a bike or other vehicle to enhance the bike's visibility and illuminate the vehicle's path. Headset: A system within the bike's headtube utilizing ball bearings to facilitate the rotation and turning of the fork steering column and front wheel. Headtube: The part of the bike frame connecting the front fork and the handlebar. Headwind: Wind blowing opposite to the direction of travel. High-Step: A bike frame design featuring a traditional, horizontal or nearly horizontal top tube. Mounting requires a high leg lift, typically swinging a leg over the rear of the bike. Compare with "step-through" and "mid-step." Hinge Pin: A small metal cylinder around which a hinge rotates. Hub: The central hollow cylinder of a wheel. Hub Motor: A motor situated at the wheel's center, contrasting with "mid-drive motor." Hydraulic Brake: A brake system where hydraulic fluid, rather than a mechanical cable, transmits the braking force from the brake lever to the caliper, slowing the bike. Ignition: The act of igniting. Used to describe the startup process for internal combustion engines, like those in most cars. Not an appropriate term for any startup component in an electric vehicle such as an ebike. See also "keyport." Insertion Point: In bicycles, this term refers to how far one component is inserted into another (e.g., the seatpost into the seat tube). The maximum insertion point is marked on seatposts as a safety indication. Integrated Brake Light: A brake light that is incorporated into another component or the bike frame. Internal Cable Cover: A component bolted inside the downtube to cover and protect the cables running in the side channels. Present in bikes with semi-integrated batteries. Jack: A mechanical device used to lift heavy objects. Jockey Wheel: The two pulleys near the rear wheel that adjust the slack in the bike chain, creating an S-shape in the chain adjacent to the derailleur. Keyport: The slot on the battery or frame for bikes with semi-integrated batteries where a key is inserted. Kickstand: A swiveling metal bar or bars used to prop up a bicycle when not in use. See also "dual-leg kickstand." LCD Display: On certain Perraro eBikes models, the LCD display is a device on the handlebar showing information such as speed, watt output, pedal assist level, and odometer. LCD stands for "liquid crystal display." LCD Display Remote: The remote on the left side of the handlebar that enables the rider to interact with the LCD Display and related functions (e.g., adjusting pedal assist level or turning on the headlight). Lead Acid Battery: An older, heavier battery technology used in early model electric vehicles (not used in any bikes by Perraro eBikes). Compare with lithium-ion battery. LED: Acronym for "light-emitting diode." Used by Perraro eBikes in the taillight, headlight, and LED display. See also "LED display." LED Display: A display utilizing LED technology. Found on some Perraro ebikes models, where it is positioned on the handlebar and shows pedal assist levels among other information. See also "LED." Lithium-ion Battery: A modern, rechargeable battery technology known for its high energy density (large capacity in a compact battery), absence of memory effect (frequent use/charging doesn't degrade the battery), and low self-discharge (maintains its charge for a long time). Lock Core: The entire unit containing a lock mechanism, including the cylinder, tumblers, springs, etc. Often appears "figure eight" shaped from the front where the key is inserted. Lock Mount: A mount for a lock. Lock-on Grip: Handlebar grips that secure using a bolt instead of just friction. Locking Pin: A pin used in the mechanism Locknut: A specially designed nut that resists loosening due to vibration, often used in mechanical connections that are subject to movement or vibration. Lockout Lever: Found on some suspension forks, this lever can "lock" the fork to prevent it from absorbing shocks. While this can make pedaling more efficient on smooth surfaces, it may result in a bumpier ride. Lockring: A reverse-threaded, notched circular component used to secure brake barrel adjusters or other bike components, preventing them from loosening. Mechanical Brake: A brake system where braking force is transmitted through a cable mechanism, as opposed to hydraulic systems where fluid is used. Mechanical Disc Brake: A type of disc brake where the braking force is applied through a cable, distinguishing it from hydraulic disc brakes which use fluid pressure. Metal Mounting Tab: A metal tab or small bracket designed for mounting components, providing a secure attachment point. Mid-Drive Motor: A motor positioned at the bike's center, typically between the pedals, which directly drives the crank. This contrasts with hub motors that are integrated into the wheel. Mid-Step Frame: A bike frame design with a top tube that is lower or slopes down from the head tube towards the seat tube, offering easier access and lower standover height compared to high-step frames. Moped: A low-powered motor vehicle that may include pedals, classified differently than bicycles and often subject to licensing, insurance, and regulations. Motor Cutoff: A safety feature that immediately cuts power to the motor when the brake lever is engaged, ensuring the bike stops promptly. Motor Drive Assembly: The collective components, including the motor and its connecting hardware and electrical parts, that integrate the motor into the bike's overall system. Motor Hall Fault: An error related to the motor's internal wiring or its communication with the bike's control systems, often detected by diagnostic tools. Mounting Arm: A long piece of hardware used to attach or stabilize bike components, such as fenders or lights, ensuring they remain fixed in position. Mounting Bolt: A bolt specifically used for securing one component to another, ensuring a stable and secure attachment. Mounting Window: An opening designed to accommodate the mounting of accessories or components, such as the compatibility of certain rear racks with child carriers. Needle Nose Pliers: Long, tapered pliers with pointed ends, ideal for gripping small items or reaching into tight spaces. Nitrile Gloves: Protective gloves recommended for use during bike assembly or maintenance to protect hands and ensure cleanliness. Odometer: A device that measures the total distance traveled by the vehicle. On bikes with an LCD display, the odometer reading is typically displayed, showing the cumulative distance covered. Ohm: The unit of measurement for electrical resistance, indicative of how strongly a material opposes the flow of electric current. Pannier: A type of bag designed to be mounted on a bike's rear rack, used for carrying cargo during rides. Passenger Peg (Footrest): A peg serving as a footrest for a bike passenger, providing comfort and stability during the ride. Some bikes, like the Tiger and Jaguar, include foldable passenger pegs. Passenger Seat: A seat specifically designed for a passenger, often an accessory for bikes like the Tiger and Jaguar ebikes, providing a comfortable seating option for riders. Payload: The total weight a vehicle can carry, not including the vehicle's own weight, encompassing both cargo and passengers. Payload Capacity: The maximum weight recommended for safe support by a vehicle, excluding the vehicle itself, which can vary based on weight distribution and is detailed in the bike's manual. Pedal: The part of the bike that the rider pushes with their feet to propel the bike forward, typically connected to the crank. Pedal Assist: A feature that activates the motor to provide additional power based on the rider's pedaling effort, enhancing the riding experience without fully replacing manual pedaling. Pedal Assist Sensor: An electronic device that detects the pedaling motion of the rider, used to activate the pedal assist system accordingly. Pedal Wrench: A specialized wrench, thinner than standard wrenches, designed to fit the narrow space between the pedal and crank for installation or removal of pedals. For precise torque, a torque wrench with a pedal wrench bit, also known as a "crowfoot" bit, is recommended. Pedal Wrench Bit: A specialized bit used with a socket, ratcheting wrench, or torque wrench, resembling a pedal wrench with a thin profile to fit between the crank and pedal. Often employed with a torque wrench to precisely tighten pedals to a specific torque value. Phillips Head Screwdriver: A screwdriver featuring a tip shaped like an "x", specifically designed for driving screws with corresponding cross-shaped slots. Pinch Flat: A type of flat tire caused by the tube being pinched between the wheel rim and a hard riding surface, often occurring when tires are underinflated. Characterized by two nearly identical cuts on each side of the tube, resembling a snake bite. Plate Spacer: A plastic wedge or packaging element used, for example, to prevent hydraulic brake pads from compressing during shipping, ensuring they remain in optimal condition. Pneumatic Support: A type of spring or damper utilizing air pressure to provide support, commonly found in suspension systems. Pneumatic Tire: A tire designed to hold air pressure, requiring inflation to the pressure specified on the tire sidewall for optimal performance. Preload Adjustment Knob: A feature on some front suspension forks that allows adjustment of the fork's resistance, ranging from softer to tighter settings. Refer to the owner's manual and "lockout lever" for more information. Programming Cable: A cable or dongle utilized during manufacturing to program the controller, configuring its settings and parameters. Puncture Flat: A type of flat tire resulting from a sharp object puncturing the tire and tube, such as thorns, glass, or tacks. Tire liners can reduce the risk of puncture flats but cannot eliminate them entirely. Puncture-Resistant Tire: A tire designed with features to prevent sharp objects from penetrating fully and causing punctures to the inner tube, enhancing durability and reliability. Quick Release: A lever mechanism enabling rapid adjustment or removal of components such as the seatpost and front wheel without requiring tools. Quick Release Skewer: A combination of lever and metal rod installed in the front wheel hub, allowing for tool-free removal of the front wheel. Rack: A rigid structure mounted on a bicycle for supporting cargo or, in some cases, passengers, enhancing the bike's utility and versatility. Ratcheting Wrench: A type of wrench featuring a ratcheting mechanism, enabling tightening or loosening of fasteners without the need for repeated repositioning. Rear Rack: A bicycle rack positioned above the rear wheel, used for carrying cargo and, occasionally, passengers, expanding the bike's carrying capacity. Reflective Sidewall Striping: Striping on the tire sidewall designed to reflect light, improving bike visibility and safety, especially in low-light conditions. Reflector: A component designed to reflect light back to its source, enhancing bike visibility and meeting legal requirements for nighttime riding. Regenerative Braking: A braking technique that converts a portion of the braking energy into a small amount of battery capacity, enhancing efficiency and range in electric vehicles. Repair Stand: A device designed to securely hold a bike, typically off the ground, facilitating maintenance and repair tasks. Rim: The metal ring that holds the tire and is connected to the hub by spokes under tension. Rim Brake: A type of brake system that uses calipers to press frictional material against the bike rim in order to slow down wheel rotation. Rim Strip: A strip of material on the inside of the rim that protects the inner tube from being punctured by the spoke holes. Roll Pin: A pin-shaped component that rolls. Rolling Resistance: The drag or force resisting the movement of a wheel across a surface. All wheels will eventually slow down due to resistance of moving parts against each other. Saddle: The seat of a bicycle. Safety Strap: A webbed strap that wraps around the bike's chainstay to provide an emergency/temporary backup method of trailer attachment to the bike in the unlikely event that the trailer arm detaches from the hitch. Schrader Valve: A common type of pneumatic tire valve. Seat: The bike component designed for the rider to sit on. Seat Adjustment Bolt: A bolt under the seat that, once loosened, allows the seat to be adjusted. Seat Mounting Bolt: A bolt that secures the seat to a custom mount. Seat Tube: The part of the frame that the seatpost slides into. Seatpost: The long metal tube that connects to the seat and slides into the seat tube. Seatstay: A part of the frame which connects the seat tube to the rear dropout. Seatstay Brace: Part of the bike frame where the two sides of the seatstay join, usually in an arch, just above the rear wheel. Semi-Integrated Battery: Battery that is partially integrated into the bike frame. Set Screw: A small screw used for making adjustments to parts including brake calipers and brake levers. Shank: The shank of a fastener (screw or bolt) is the entire fastener minus the head. Shift Gear: To transition from one gear to another. See "gears." Shift Lever: A lever at the handlebar that is used to shift gears. Single-Speed Bike: A bike that has only one gear. Skid Plate: A flat plate designed to skid along another surface. On a bike, a skid plate may be installed underneath sensitive components to protect them from accidental exposure to riding terrain (bumps, rocks, etc.). Split Washer: A washer that is split on one side, with the two edges offset. Also called a "lock washer." Spoke: One of many metal rods that connect the rim to the hub of a bike wheel. Steerer Tube: The upper part of the front fork that goes into the head tube and attaches to the turning parts of the headset and handlebar stem to allow steering. Stem: The horizontal tube that connects the handlebar to the steering column inside the head tube. Stem Angle: The angle of the stem relative to the head tube. Stem Angle Adjustment Bolt: The bolt lets you loosen, adjust, and secure the angle of the handlebar stem. Available only on bikes with adjustable stem angles Stem Clamp Bolts: Bolts that secure the stem to the steerer tube on most bikes. In the case of a bike with a stem riser, the stem clamp bolts attach the stem to the stem riser Stem clasp: Clasp mechanism of the folding stem. Consists of a roll pin inside the stem clasp release lever that rolls over an adjustable hex bolt inside the stem. Stem clasp release lever: A lever that locks or unlocks a folding mechanism. Stem faceplate: A plate used to secure the handlebar to the handlebar stem. See also "faceplate." Stem folding mechanism: The entire folding mechanism on a folding handlebar stem. Stem riser: Component that connects the steerer tube to the stem. Not present in all bike designs. Examples of a bike with a stem riser: Polar Electric Trike and Panda Electric Tricycle Stem riser clamp bolts: Bolts that secure the stem riser to the steerer tube. Step-thru: A frame design without a top tube. Allows a rider to mount the bike with a low step in front of the seat rather than swinging a leg over the seat/ back of the bike. Strip: To damage a bolt or screw head by letting the tip of the driver slip out of the head while turning, expanding the opening that the driver must fit into snuggly. This mostly commonly occurs when the driver is not fully inserted into the bolt head when force is applied. Stripped bolt head: A bolt head whose drive slot(s) have been damaged by a driver slipping out of the slot and distorting the slot shape such that it can no longer be easily turned by the driver. Suspension fork: A front fork with built-in shock absorption. Suspension seatpost: A seatpost with built-in shock absorption. Taillight: A light, located on the back of a vehicle that increases the vehicle's visibility. Telescoping seatpost: A seatpost that comes in more than one section, one of which can slide into the other section. Provides a greater range of height adjustment. Terminal contact: One of several contact points through which power from a battery passes to the device that uses battery power. Thread: A spiral groove used for fastening. Usually used in the plural (threads). When used in the singular, usually refers to a one full circumference of such grooves. When used as a verb, to turn a threaded object (e.g., a screw or bolt) into another material or a threaded mount. Threaded: Having threads (spiral grooves used for fastening) Threading: Collective noun (gerund) for threads. Threadlocker: Liquid applied to fastener threads to increase their resistance to loosening via vibration. Threads: The spiral grooves on a fastener (like a screw or bolt). Throttle: A feature that allows the rider to manually call up power from the motor and battery without pedaling. Controlled by a device on the handlebar. Twist throttle: Non-preferred term for "throttle." Thumb nut: A type of nut designed to be easy to grip (i.e., with your thumb/fingers). Tire: The round rubber/fiber casing for the inner tube that connects to the rim and that the wheels roll on. Tire bead: A ridge molded on the edge of the tire that keeps the tire attached to the rim when the tube is inflated. Tire sidewall: The side of a tire, which provides lateral stability and helps protect the layers of the tire as well as the pneumatic inner tube. Top cap: Cap that conceals and protects the top-cap bolt, which attaches the handlebar stem to the steerer tube. Top cap bolt: Bolt that attaches the handlebar stem to the headset/steerer tube inside of the headtube. Called the "top cap" bolt because it passes through the top cap, which is what seals off the headtube and its contents from the elements. Top cap bolt cover: Small cover (usually in the form of a flexible plug) that covers and protects the head of the top cap bolt, which would otherwise be exposed in the center of the top cap. Top tube: The portion of the bike frame that connects the headtube with the seat tube. On a step-thru frame, the top tube slopes down toward the bottom bracket. Torque: A rotational force. Used to describe tightening a component or hardware to a specific value. When used as a verb, to apply rotational force. Torque arm: Piece of hardware that resists the twisting forces that a hub motor creates when you apply power to the motor. The large opening that fits over the axle of the hub motor will have an irregular shape (e.g., round but with two sides flattened) to ensure it stays in its intended position. The smaller opening is bolted to the frame. See also "torque washer." Torque sensor: Sensor that detects the force that the rider applies to the cranks. Compare with "torque sensor." Compare to "cadence sensor." Torque value: A specific amount of rotational force, typically measured in "newton meters" (Nm). Torque washer: A type of asymetrical washer with a protruding tab that helps resist the torque force between the axle and the frame. See also "torque arm." Torque wrench: A torque wrench is a tool used to apply a specific torque (rotational force) to a fastener such as a nut or bolt. Tread: The part of the tire designed to come into contact with the road (or other surface). Trike / Tricycle: A vehicle with three wheels. Trip odometer: A feature that measures how far a bike has traveled during a specific interval, shown on the LCD display. True: Describes a spinning component, such as a wheel, that spins straight, without any wobble. See also "truing" and "untrue." Truing: The process of adjusting a spinning component (such as a wheel or disc rotor) so that it spins straight, without any wobble. See also "true" and "untrue." Tube: Inflatable, usually ring-shaped rubber component that holds air inside the tire. Sometimes called "inner tube." Turn-signal light: Light used to indicate that the vehicle is about to turn. Twist power assist: A system that allows the rider to manually call up additional power from the motor and battery while the rider is pedaling. Do not confuse with throttle, which can deploy power without the rider pedaling. Compare to "throttle." Universal Serial Bus: A connector standard for many computers, mobile phones, and other electronics. Untrue: A component that wobbles when spinning. See also "true" and "truing." USB port: Port for connecting a USB device. Volt: Abbreviated "V." The unit of electrical potential energy, or the difference of potential that would drive one amp of current against one ohm of resistance. Voltage: A fundamental concept of electricity that describes electric potential difference. Walk mode: A feature that allows the rider to walk beside the bike and push the bike forward with help from the motor. Washer: Flat, circular disk with a hole in the center, placed on a bolt or screw shaft to distribute clamping force of the fastener over a larger surface area. Stem clasp release lever: A lever that locks or unlocks a folding mechanism. Stem faceplate: A plate used to secure the handlebar to the handlebar stem. See also "faceplate." Stem folding mechanism: The entire folding mechanism on a folding handlebar stem. Stem riser: Component that connects the steerer tube to the stem. Not present in all bike designs. Stem riser clamp bolts: Bolts that secure the stem riser to the steerer tube. Step-thru: A frame design without a top tube. Allows a rider to mount the bike with a low step in front of the seat rather than swinging a leg over the seat/ back of the bike. Strip: To damage a bolt or screw head by letting the tip of the driver slip out of the head while turning, expanding the opening that the driver must fit into snuggly. This mostly commonly occurs when the driver is not fully inserted into the bolt head when force is applied. Stripped bolt head: A bolt head whose drive slot(s) have been damaged by a driver slipping out of the slot and distorting the slot shape such that it can no longer be easily turned by the driver. Suspension fork: A front fork with built-in shock absorption. Suspension seatpost: A seatpost with built-in shock absorption. Taillight: A light, located on the back of a vehicle that increases the vehicle's visibility. Telescoping seatpost: A seatpost that comes in more than one section, one of which can slide into the other section. Provides a greater range of height adjustment. Terminal contact: One of several contact points through which power from a battery passes to the device that uses battery power. Thread: A spiral groove used for fastening. Usually used in the plural (threads). When used in the singular, usually refers to a one full circumference of such grooves. When used as a verb, to turn a threaded object (e.g., a screw or bolt) into another material or a threaded mount. Threaded: Having threads (spiral grooves used for fastening) Threading: Collective noun (gerund) for threads. Threadlocker: Liquid applied to fastener threads to increase their resistance to loosening via vibration. Threads: The spiral grooves on a fastener (like a screw or bolt). Throttle: A feature that allows the rider to manually call up power from the motor and battery without pedaling. Controlled by a device on the handlebar. Twist throttle: Non-preferred term for "throttle." Thumb nut: A type of nut designed to be easy to grip (i.e., with your thumb/fingers). Tire: The round rubber/fiber casing for the inner tube that connects to the rim and that the wheels roll on. Tire bead: A ridge molded on the edge of the tire that keeps the tire attached to the rim when the tube is inflated. Tire sidewall: The side of a tire, which provides lateral stability and helps protect the layers of the tire as well as the pneumatic inner tube. Top cap: Cap that conceals and protects the top-cap bolt, which attaches the handlebar stem to the steerer tube. Top cap bolt: Bolt that attaches the handlebar stem to the headset/steerer tube inside of the headtube. Called the "top cap" bolt because it passes through the top cap, which is what seals off the headtube and its contents from the elements. Top cap bolt cover: Small cover (usually in the form of a flexible plug) that covers and protects the head of the top cap bolt, which would otherwise be exposed in the center of the top cap. Top tube: The portion of the bike frame that connects the headtube with the seat tube. On a step-thru frame, the top tube slopes down toward the bottom bracket. Torque: A rotational force. Used to describe tightening a component or hardware to a specific value. When used as a verb, to apply rotational force. Torque arm: Piece of hardware that resists the twisting forces that a hub motor creates when you apply power to the motor. The large opening that fits over the axle of the hub motor will have an irregular shape (e.g., round but with two sides flattened) to ensure it stays in its intended position. The smaller opening is bolted to the frame. See also "torque washer." Torque sensor: Sensor that detects the force that the rider applies to the cranks. Compare with "torque sensor." Compare to "cadence sensor." Torque value: A specific amount of rotational force, typically measured in "newton meters" (Nm). Torque washer: A type of asymetrical washer with a protruding tab that helps resist the torque force between the axle and the frame. See also "torque arm." Torque wrench: A torque wrench is a tool used to apply a specific torque (rotational force) to a fastener such as a nut or bolt. Tread: The part of the tire designed to come into contact with the road (or other surface). Trike / Tricycle: A vehicle with three wheels. Trip odometer: A feature that measures how far a bike has traveled during a specific interval, shown on the LCD display. True: Describes a spinning component, such as a wheel, that spins straight, without any wobble. See also "truing" and "untrue." Truing: The process of adjusting a spinning component (such as a wheel or disc rotor) so that it spins straight, without any wobble. See also "true" and "untrue." Tube: Inflatable, usually ring-shaped rubber component that holds air inside the tire. Sometimes called "inner tube." Turn-signal light: Light used to indicate that the vehicle is about to turn. Twist power assist: A system that allows the rider to manually call up additional power from the motor and battery while the rider is pedaling. Do not confuse with throttle, which can deploy power without the rider pedaling. Compare to "throttle." Universal Serial Bus: A connector standard for many computers, mobile phones, and other electronics. Untrue: A component that wobbles when spinning. See also "true" and "truing." USB port: Port for connecting a USB device. Volt: Abbreviated "V." The unit of electrical potential energy, or the difference of potential that would drive one amp of current against one ohm of resistance. Voltage: A fundamental concept of electricity that describes electric potential difference. Walk mode: A feature that allows the rider to walk beside the bike and push the bike forward with help from the motor. Washer: Flat, circular disk with a hole in the center, placed on a bolt or screw shaft to distribute clamping force of the fastener over a larger surface area. Water-bottle cage: A rigid holder designed to contain a water bottle. Watt: A measurement of power. Watt hour: A measurement of energy used to describe battery capacity. watt meter: An instrument for measuring electric power. Wheel lock: A lock made specifically to secure the rear wheel to prevent unauthorized use. Wheel skirt: A shield that can be installed on the sides of a wheel to protect it (or a passenger) from damage or injury. Wingnut: A nut designed to be tightened by hand (without tools). Wiring harness: An assembly of electrical cables bound by durable material. On many bikes from Perraro Electric Bikes, several handlebar-area electrical cables plug into one end of a wiring harness, an adapter cable that feeds into the downtube where, toward the bottom of the bike, it connects to the controller via the wiring harness connector. The wiring harness optimizes space and makes assembly and maintenance easier. Contrast with "cable housing" and "cable cover." Cable harness: Non-preferred term. Use "wiring harness" instead. Wiring harness connector: The large connector, usually located near the controller or inside the downtube, that connects the wiring harness to the controller. Wrench: A tool for holding or rotating an object (such as a bolt or nut). Zip tie: A plastic strip that can be threaded through its end and tightened in order to fasten something. Also called "cable tie" in English.
Learn moreElectric Bike and Trike Maintenance Guide
Maintaining your electric bike (ebike) or electric trike is essential for ensuring safety, longevity, and optimal performance. Just like traditional bicycles, electric bikes and trikes require regular check-ups and maintenance routines. This guide provides comprehensive insights into the upkeep of your electric two-wheeler or three-wheeler, ensuring that every ride is smooth, safe, and enjoyable. Introduction to Ebike and Electric Trike Care Whether you own an electric bike or an electric tricycle, routine maintenance is key to keeping your ride in top condition. From pre-ride inspections to annual check-ups, this guide covers all aspects of electric bike and trike care. Follow the recommendations outlined here, and refer to your specific model's Owner's Manual for detailed maintenance advice. Routine Maintenance for Your Electric Bike or Trike Pre-Ride Inspections Frequency: Before each ride Procedure: Conduct a thorough inspection of your ebike or electric trike, focusing on alignment, security, and functionality of all components. Refer to the Pre-Ride Safety Checklist for detailed steps. Cleaning Your Ride Frequency: As needed Procedure: Use a damp cloth and eco-friendly, non-corrosive cleaners to wipe down your bike. Avoid pressure washers and hoses to prevent water damage to electrical parts. Annual Maintenance Checks Frequency: Once a year Procedure: Consult a certified bike mechanic for a comprehensive check-up, or consider a mobile service like Velofix if available in your area. Brake Pad Maintenance Frequency: As required Procedure: Due to the higher speeds and increased momentum of ebikes and electric trikes, brake pads wear out faster. Replace them when the material is less than 1 mm thick. Paint Inspection Frequency: As needed Procedure: Check the frame for scratches or chips and apply touch-up paint or clear nail polish to prevent rust. For more detailed information, explore our articles on bike maintenance frequency and available resources for bike-related inquiries on The Scenic Route. Maintenance Schedule Overview Regular upkeep is crucial for the best performance and durability of your electric bike or trike. Service intervals depend on usage, but here are general guidelines: Post-Break-In Period (50–100 Miles) Inspect: Cables, chain, spoke tension, and bolted connections. Service: Get a thorough tune-up from a certified mechanic. Weekly Checks (100–200 Miles) Inspect: Hardware torque, drivetrain, wheel trueness, and frame condition. Service: Clean the frame and lubricate the chain. Replace: Any damaged components. Monthly Maintenance (250–750 Miles) Inspect: Brake pads, shifting, chain stretch, and shifter cables. Service: Clean and lubricate the drivetrain, check crankset and pedal torque, and adjust spokes. Replace: Worn shifter cables and brake pads. Bi-Annual Check-Up (750–1250 Miles) Inspect: Drivetrain and all cables. Service: Perform a standard tune-up and grease the bottom bracket. Replace: Brake pads, tires, and cables if needed. Regular maintenance of your electric bike or trike not only ensures the best riding experience but also enhances the longevity of your vehicle. Always consult a certified, reputable bike mechanic for inspections and services, especially after any incidents that could impact the bike's integrity. Stay safe and enjoy the ride! If you have any inquiries or need further assistance, feel free to contact our support team at support@perraroelectricbike.com or call us at (949) 414-8003.
Learn moreEssential Maintenance for Your Ebike: A Step-by-Step Cleaning Manual
Maintaining the pristine condition of your electric bike, whether it's an electric trike or a standard ebike, is crucial for its performance and longevity. Elements such as dirt, mud, and even the corrosive effects of rock salt can compromise your ebike's chain and other components. Regular cleansing rituals can prevent damage, ensuring a secure and enjoyable ride. Maintaining an Upright Position: When attending to your electric bike's cleanliness, especially when it's drenched or undergoing maintenance, keep it upright. Ebike components are adept at shedding water from the top down. Inverting your ebike for cleaning might invite water damage and potentially invalidate your warranty. Finding the Right Tools: Your local bike store and various online retailers offer an array of cleaning tools specifically designed for ebikes. Consult with your local expert to procure the most effective chain lubricant tailored to your ebike, whether it's an electric tricycle or bike, and your unique riding conditions. What You'll Need: - Cotton cloths for cleaning - Lukewarm water - Eco-friendly, gentle cleaning agent - Specialized ebike degreaser - Premium chain lubricant for ebikes - A stand for your bike, or an assistant (optional) - Protective nitrile gloves (optional) - A protective drop cloth for your workspace (optional) Cleaning Process: Power Down Safely: Begin by turning off your ebike. Hold down the M button to power off, remove the battery, and press M again to ensure all power is discharged. Frame Wiping: With a fresh cloth dampened with warm water (add a touch of detergent if you like), gently clean the bike frame. Avoid allowing moisture near any electronic elements to prevent damage. Degreasing the Chain: Imbue a clean cloth with a degreaser (do not apply directly to the chain) and carefully cleanse the chain. Position the cloth around the lower section of the chain and rotate the pedals backward to clean each link thoroughly. Drying and Lubricating: After cleaning, let the chain dry completely before applying lubricant to prevent trapping moisture that could lead to wear and tear. Follow the lubricant manufacturer's guidelines for application. Final Touches: With the bike propped up, rotate the pedals forward and shift through all gears to distribute the lubricant. Any excess on the chain's outer plates should be wiped off to prevent attracting more dirt. Complete Drying: Dry off your ebike with another clean cloth and store it in a dry place indoors. Once dry, reinstall the battery and perform a full test before your next ride. Conclusion: Adhering to this straightforward cleaning regimen will not only enhance your riding experience on your electric bike or electric trike but also contribute to the vehicle's durability. For more detailed maintenance tips, visit our comprehensive guide on electric bike care. If you have any inquiries or need further assistance, please contact our support team at support@perraroelectricbike.com or (949) 414-8003.
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